Sharing roasted groundnuts with the king

I went to visit Kabaka Ronald Muwenda Mutebi of Buganda and found him waiting to receive me outside the palatial gates in Bulange. I was surprised to find no characteristic pomp of royal musicians and drummers, prostrating subjects, intimidating guards or snarling dogs at the king’s feet ready to pounce on anyone who would threaten royalty!

Kabaka Ronald Muwenda-Mutebi

It was the beginning of more surprises, for there was nothing ‘regal’ inside his office except a simple wooden chair behind an equally simple table – the kind you find in any ordinary man’s office or home. The king was reading my mind because he immediately said, “Simplicity; the trick is in simplicity!"

He then excused himself and returned with a saucer of roasted groundnuts which we slowly enjoyed and drank black tea in long cups made from clay. We talked about many seemingly insubstantial things until the king assumed a grave tone and said, “I want to tell you about industrialization in its unadulterated purity.”

Gesturing and talking with an emotiveness I found a little embarrassing for a king, he argued, “Museveni’s idea of industrialization and modernization is skewered. It’s empowering foreign impostors named investors at the expense of local entrepreneurs. Look at those magnificent supermarkets and factories in the city – how much are Ugandans who work there paid for their day-long back-breaking toil? Can they make a living out of that pay?”

The king then recalled the old days of blacksmiths, potters and rare artisans, and the incredible stuff they used to make: “If you go to places like Katwe today, you’ll still find the remnants of those creative luminaries you so-called modernists don’t want to give a chance. The influx of foreign capitalists have made their lives impossible as the government looks on. Why for instance would the country allow importation of sofas say from China when our boys can do better? That’s why you’ll never find posh furniture in my office or home!”

We talked till the evening sun beckoned us outside. And all through, the Kabaka was as impressive with his ideas as he was with his simplicity and friendliness. We were still talking when I woke up. The dream had been so vivid and funny it made me laugh in the pitch night. I was still thinking about it the following day, and failing to crack its mysteriousness, decided there was nothing in it except a lesson on humility, humanity and foresight.